A New York City Health and Beauty Blog

Mascara Melee: Five Top Formulas, Road Tested

Even at their best, mascaras are a bit difficult to gauge. Very, very rarely do you find one that just “wows” you. If it doesn’t run and it doesn’t clump, it’s basically an awesome mascara, right? Even a really impactful mascara can be difficult to commit to, because you always want to find that really amazing curling, lifting, separating mascara.

Mascara also uniquely has the downside of degrading more quickly than any cosmetic. So sometimes a fantastic mascara will be amazing for ten days, before it turns into a flaky, goopy mess- which is such a shame, because when mascara is great, it can make your whole look feel exceptionally polished.

There are a few biggies in the mascara realm- some better than others and all with slightly different attributes. Let’s break down some of the best mascaras…

MAC Zoom Lash: Zoom Lash holds a special place in my MUA heart, because it was introduced when I was just starting out as a MAC freelancer. It was one of my first coveted “big girl” products, and a lot of my affection for it is based in that memory.

Bear in mind this is a controversial mascara, in as much as a mascara can be controversial. But even though the staying power isn’t the best on the market, it solidly darkens and thickens lashes and holds a curl well.

Lancome Hypnose: Earlier in the week, we discussed Lancome’s Dual Finish Pressed Powder Foundation. In the GWP that came along with it, I received a sample of this formulation. A moderate Definicils fan, I thought Hypnose would be a nice twist on Lancome’s mostly solid mascara line. I was definitely underwhelmed by the flaky formula, which called to mind Halloween costumes from when I was a kid. This formula gets some decent reviews around the web, but there are far better options at the Lancome counter.

Maybelline Full n’ Soft: I love high-end makeup, but mascara has far less of a gulf between fancy and mass-market than color products like lipstick or eyeshadow. If you’re at the supermarket or drugstore and need a mascara option stat, Maybelline’s Full n’ Soft is far better an option than the much lauded Great Lash. It defines and separates lashes without clumping, and has a lengthy makeup bag life. Definitely a diamond in the rough.

Clinique Naturally Glossy: Not one of the more dominant mascaras, Clinique’s Naturally Glossy is often overlooked and certainly underrated. This formula is great for work because it goes on thinly, but separates and darkens lashes really well. It doesn’t flake, stays put, and washes off with a minimum of fuss.

Dior DiorShow: DiorShow is another divisive mascara- one of the higher-end options on the market, and very loved by some. The formula defines and separates, without getting too thick or intense – good for day and night.

Everyone has a standard mascara they come back to time and again- what’s yours?

Bulletproof Beauty: Summer Makeup That Stays Put

In New York City, there is a week in May where the ground is neither covered with snow nor emitting steamy poofs of humidity. It happens again in reverse sometime in October, but the rest of the time, the city is a danger zone of frizzy hair, smudgy eyeliner and a shiny t-zone.

If you’re not dealing with hairstyle destroying gusts of wind, you’re battling makeup-melt. Arriving at your destination, even if it’s only three subway stops away, becomes an exercise in style preservation. And while it’s next to near impossible to ensure your look will stay totally intact, these products can help you toward the goal of looking polished and put-together. Here are some handy summer makeup tips that will help you weather the weather!

1.) A no-nonsense base: Liquid makeup is a bit too malleable and soft to withstand summer swelter, and minerals can- although not always get cakey and settle into pores. (Although it bears mentioning that their sun protection factor is awesome.)

I’ve sung the praises of MAC’s Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation before, but it really does create a long-lasting, flawless look like nothing else. Apply with a brush for the thinnest, most controllable coverage with this foundation. Although brushes are always an excellent investment, e.l.f.’s Foundation Brush is a super steal at $1 each- and excellent quality.

2.) Waterproof tints: Stains and tints may seem counterintuitive for summer, as light balms and glosses often take center stage. But with a subtle hand and judicious color selection, they could be the difference between an enduring look and mid-day washout.

LORAC’s Sheer Wash in Sheer Magic is perfect for sun-kissed skin, and Sheer Emotion is a great choice for the fairer-skinned. This formulation works for both cheeks and lips. DuWop’s Pure Venom Pure Berry Lip Stain is a more moisturizing choice, with an intense, natural berry hue.

3.) Eye makeup austerity: When it comes to warm-weather smudging, eyes are one of the first casualties of an intense look. Waterproof and smudgeproof mascaras and liners abound, but a clean, set curled lash and neutral shadow are the least likely to cause a Courtney Love-like effect.

Shiseido The Makeup Lasting Lift Mascara is light and feathery, but still defines lashes well and holds a curl. Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Cream Shadow in Bone is a nice, sturdy neutral for long, hot days, and it won’t slide all over like many cream shadows often do in warm weather.

Setting makeup with a soft spritz of toner and an anti-frizz serum should put the finishing touches on your sun-proof, heat-resistant look. Do you have any tips or tricks for hot-weather beauty?

Get the Look: Jennifer Lawrence as Katniss Everdeen

It seems everyone on Earth, teen or adult, has read the Hunger Games series and is eagerly anticipating the upcoming film adaptation. The series seems to be following Twilight in generational crossover, and will undoubtedly a box-office hit.

The selection of Winter’s Bone actress Jennifer Lawrence was a shock to fans, and it was said the 20-year-old was too blonde and fair-skinned to convincingly play the weathered teenage heroine Katniss Everdeen. But opinion shifted today when EW revealed the first official pics of Jennifer-as-Katniss, in a stripped down, almost beachy, newly brunette look.

Lawrence’s makeup, while very natural, is actually a perfect summer style. A loose braid and sideswept bangs frame a dewy tan, pink-neutral lips and almost bare eye. Want to emulate it? Here are some products that will work well.

1.) Face: A creamy, light foundation like Giorgio Armani’s Luminous Silk Foundation will even skin out, and a light dusting of a subtly shimmer bronzer powder lacking orange tones will create this realistic tan-tone. Benefit’s Hoola or Sephora Collection Bronzer in Bora Bora are both excellent choices.

Shortcut: Bare Escentuals Original Foundation will also give skin an even, glowy tone. Mineral makeup isn’t for everyone, but this formula has a lot of brand-loyal followers.

2.) Cheeks: Blush is actually a pretty big part of this look, concentrated mainly in a contour fashion to accentuate the cheekbones. Clinique’s Fresh Bloom Allover Colour in Plum Poppy is a nice, dusty pink match. Laura Mercier’s angled kabuki would be ideal for this application.

3.) Eyes: Shadow and liner take a backseat here, featuring a nude shadow and a quick swipe of mascara. MAC Ricepaper is similar to bare skin with a tiny bit of shimmer, and Laura Geller’s Line and Define in Charcoal has an ultra-fine brush and lighter mascara formulation for less-intense definition, top and bottom.

4.) Lips: Lips are also almost-nude here, and MAC’s Stripdown was made for this look. Use a tiny bit of balm to ensure even application, and then simply line and fill in lips. (No gloss.)

Have you tried the Katniss Everdeen makeup look? Are you ready for beachy makeup yet?

Summer Trend: Can You Wear Orange Lips?

Some trends just look so complicated on paper. And of the colors that are a challenge to incorporate into a look, orange is pretty high up there. It might actually be top of the list, maybe topped only by canary yellow on the difficult-to-apply charts. But the flip side of orange is that when it’s impressive, you can kind of fall in love with it. (I have a muted yet vibrant orange Whole Foods tote that stays on a hook in the kitchen because it is so adorable.)

It’s not just orange that’s big this season, but orange lips. But as you take in the safety orange on some color stories this season, it helps to remember that runway looks are always super intense. Orange is actually wearable, at maybe a 20% saturation of what you see in illustrative, promotional pics. Here are five orange lip products that will set off your summery self-tan:

1.) NARS Lip Gloss in Babe: Color saturation is a big thing with wearing intense hues, which is not to say you can’t rock out a mega bright orange. But NARS’ Babe is a pretty muted coral, enough orange to invoke the trend and play up bronzed skin, but not enough to call to mind a traffic cone. A really nice, understated option for orange lips.

2.) Smashbox Limitless Lip Stain & Color Seal Balm in Guava: If I had to choose one single method of coloring my lips for the rest of my days, it would be a stain/balm combo. (Is that cheating?) Nothing lasts as long, adjusts as well and feels as natural as this particular pout power couple. Stains can also be a bit truer-wearing than lipsticks or lip glosses. You can get the general feel of the color’s undertones and be reasonably sure it won’t fade to an unintended shade. Smashbox’s Limitless Balm and Stain in Guava describes itself as a “bright coral orange,” but in truth, it’s an eminently wearable muted shade. Intense, yes, but still believably natural.

3.) Stila Convertible Color in Gladiola: Okay, this is not a product for shrinking violets. But the application method (it’s in a pan) is well-suited to building color, and the hue can be applied to cheeks, too. A light hand and a dusting of bronzer could seriously make this color work for summer.

4.) Guerlain Rouge G Série Noire in Orange Euphorique: This color is limited edition- but so is the orange lip trend. Compact envy is a huge part of this product’s appeal, but the hue is true orange yet soft. And a mirror is built in, eliminating the danger or over-application or too-bright lips.

5.) MAC Sheen Supreme Lipstick in Gotta Dash: Billed as a coral, this shade is a fairly true, workable orange. The Sheen Supreme line is described as a lipstick/Lip Glass “hybrid,” and the glossy aspect will allow for indiscriminate touch-ups.

Have you given orange lips a try this season? Are you digging the look, or a bit apprehensive?

Road Tested Self-Tanners, Perfect For Sundress Weather

By my calculations, it’s about two weeks and four days until the annual “oh, my God, I’m really pale” panic sets in. No matter what tone your skin is naturally, chances are around the start of June you just start feeling a bit pasty and wan. It seems the anticipation of summer blends with rapidly decreasing hem lengths to create a perfect storm of tan-frenzy.

As a NW15, I know the prospect of self tanner can be a bit like gambling- except when you lose a bet, you don’t have to have splotchy skin for a few days. The days of SPF 5 may be over, but no matter your natural skin tone, you can get a golden glow with a few simple tricks and tools.

1.) Exfoliate super thoroughly: This is something that most people learn from experience the first time- few things alert you to how much more thoroughly you can slough off dead skin than a newly-applied tanning gel or creme. Scrubs are good, but for ultimate precision, scrub gloves create an even, exfoliated service. (Or if you’re in the mood for a service, the scrubs at awesomest-place-ever Spa Castle are legendary.)

2.) Not every tanner works for every skin type: …however, fairer-skinned girls can get away with cutting pretty much any self-tanner with moisturizer for a more natural glow. It’s tempting to reach for the darkest formula first, but intense formulas on light skin can cause a jarring, orangey brown look that is especially noticable in photos. St. Tropez’s Bronzing Lotion is strong but a true brown, free of carroty hues. They even have a Tan Remover for slip-ups.

3.) Try to mimic the sun: Eyelids, the backs of hands and toes are all a bit tricky when it comes to a good home self-tan, and it’s always hard to reach your back. Invest in some good, tight latex gloves for accuracy, and blend out toward your back with a little lotion to avoid streaks. When applying product to your face, take care to avoid eyelids and diligently attack cheekbones and the bridge of your nose, where color naturally concentrates.

4.) Think outside the bottle: When self-tanner first came back, it was mainly lotions and mousses. Now several awesome options exist to tan like the pros at home. Sheer Tan has a nice wand-inclusive design that makes hard to reach areas less fussy, and ModelCo Airbrush Tan in a Can creates an even, realistic bronze tone on skin. (Be careful of splatters and errant sprays with home spray-tanning products.)

5.) Adjust and maintain: One of the best ways to call attention to an awesome tan is by adjusting your makeup. A peachy blush like MAC Peaches enhances even the slightest glow, and gold-themed shadows like Bobbi Brown’s Metallic Eyeshadow in Gold compliment freshly bronzed skin.

Have you mastered the perfect at-home tan? What gives you a realistic, sun-kissed glow?